Well, once upon a time i heard "Life isn't about how many breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away". Who said this was absolutely right, i spent a marvelous afternoon surfing and watching the sunset. I tell you its the best sport that someone ever invented, even when you fall there is a certain fun on the thing. When you catch the wave you stand up, and just go, no math, no problems, no work, no nothing, just you, the sun, the board, the ocean, the surroundings.
I never thought that seating on the board, just watching the horizon, waiting for the perfect wave could be anything like interesting, well i was wrong, it is.